wrap-up

The title of this post has two meanings:  One, I am wrapping up this blog because I am moving back to the US in a few days.  I haven't posted for about three weeks, so I have lots to share.  The second meaning is a bit of a joke regarding all the NGOs that operate in Uganda, and Kampala in particular.  In a moment of cynicism my roommates and I decided to "start" a fake-NGO, utilizing the acronyms, stock messages, and ambiguous donor language that we observe here all the time (not to say that some of these NGOs don't do critical work--they definitely do.)  The final product: L'WRAP-U or, Lil' Wayne's Repository for AIDS Prevention Uganda (there we go, now Lil' Wayne can officially come up as a search item in this blog! Thank goodness!)  The tag-line of our innovative faux-NGO: Wrap It Up.  Hence, the title.  Ok, now on to more important things. 

Last week of work

My last week of work was meant to be fairly uneventful.  I purposely wrapped up (ha ha) most of my projects ahead of time, thinking my last week could be dedicated to goodbyes and finishing up any last minute paperwork.  But, if there is anything I have learned by working in Uganda it is that nothing ever goes as planned.  I showed up to work my last week and it was announced that we would be doing "general office cleaning" and that meant completely cleaning out, organizing, and cataloging the resource center and all files in the office.  My office collects paper copies of nearly everything--binders filled with printed out emails, as I imagine some offices in the US might have done in the very early days of emails, and every newsletter or brochure ever received from other organizations (and trust me, dozens of trees were killed for this purpose).  It was an exhausting week full of manual labor.  But, it was great to help out in this manner because, unlike some of my other projects, we could all see the tangible benefit of this one: a cleaner, more efficient office space! 

Saying goodbye to my coworkers was sad, but made easier when my direct supervisor informed me that I was "a great medical professional."  So, I guess as long as I am counting my successes and failures (maybe not counting, but considering anyway) I can say that I really struggle with how to represent public health, what I do, what I can do, and what I want to do.  Any tips would be great, as I will be an MPH soon enough (and no, I can't take your blood pressure/prescribe you medicine/or tell you what that funny cough you have is [but it's probably TB, so go to the clinic already!]).  For the record, my coworkers know that I am not a doctor, and I think my supervisor was making a joke!  Well, I hope so anyway.  I am happy to call many of my coworkers very good friends. 

I will really miss my coworkers because they were all dedicated, intelligent, and fascinating people.  I loved getting to know each of them and learning about Uganda through them.  I also learned so much about development, the donor-beneficiary relationship, public health systems, and how small, grass-roots NGOs operate.  

World AIDS Day

On Thursday, December 2nd Uganda celebrated World AIDS Day.  My organization sent me as a representative to the national event in Kololo (a neighborhood in Kampala).  The event was really cool: dozens of organizations set up booths doing everything from condom demonstrations, to original songs and dances about HIV.  There was a lot of testing and counseling happening as well, which was great to see.  Although Uganda is currently lagging a bit in HIV prevention strategies, the overall culture surrounding HIV is very open and honest, which just might be their saving grace in the long run.  In contrast, in my experience living in South Africa I found the culture surrounding HIV to be secretive, deeply stigmatized, with responses driven by fear and blame.  Hopefully Uganda's openness and previously good record in dealing with HIV will propel it into further successes.  I hope so, anyway. 

My experience with events like World AIDS Day, is that they can sometimes be a bit... superficial.  This one proved no different.  Still, it was a really educational for me to see all the various organizations working on different aspects of HIV: prevention and education, testing and counseling, awareness raising, treatment, health systems strengthening, improving lab services, and on and on.  It also showed just how prevalent HIV is in just about every other health and non-health related sector.  I guess this is either demonstrative of how pervasive HIV is or how every sector wants a piece of HIV for financial purposes.  Either way, HIV bisects maternal and child health, education, TB treatment, disability, gender, sex work, human rights, and on and on.

Vacation

My mom came to visit me in Uganda!  I was so excited that my mom showed enough bravery and interest in my life and work that she wanted to visit and see what this place was all about.  She came in on a Friday and we spent the weekend in Kampala.  I took her all over the chaos of downtown, to several markets, the the Bahai Temple, and a cultural dance performance.  She got to meet and share meals with my friends and roommates, and generally see what my life is like here.  Then we took the post bus to Kabale where we relaxed on the beautiful Lake Bunyonyi.  From there we took some dodgy transportation (thanks for being such a good sport about African public transport, Mom!) to the border with Rwanda where we crossed over and made our way to Kigali.  Kigali, Rwanda was a fascinating city and such a contrast to Kampala!  My mom endured my endless comparisons between the two, but I eventually came to the conclusion that I like Kampala better.  Kigali may be clean, orderly, safe, functional, and polite, but Kampala is home.  

After Rwanda we flew to Nairobi, Kenya where we did a 3 day safari in Masai Mara.  It was really fun to see lots of animals and the beautiful scenery.  From there we continued the safari to Tanzania where we visited Tarangire, Lake Manyara, and the Ngorongoro Crater (this one was my favorite).  Although the safari was a bit long, we enjoyed ourselves.  It was very interesting to experience east Africa as a tourist.  I MUCH prefer the resident perspective.  

Parting Words 

I will probably post one more time with pictures, but content-wise I think that about wraps it up!  I am back "home" in Kampala for a few days, saying more goodbyes, and I will be on a plane going west in just a few days.   

Every piece of this experience--from my short jaunt up in northern Uganda, to my many trips to the field in rural parts of Uganda, to my daily interactions with co-workers turned friends, and to my relaxing weekends soaking up Kampala's ex-pat scene--have been meaningful and essential.  I come out of this more dedicated, more committed, and more excited about my future working towards social justice through public health.  I also come out of this more troubled by the burden of finding the most responsible and appropriate venues for action.  

I am realizing that "doing good" is not enough.  It never will be.  It's been an amazing, humbling 7 months. 

Until next time, Marta

weekend update

One of my more ambitious housemates decided that it would be a good idea to host Thanksgiving in our Kampala-home this year, so on Thursday my roommates and I ventured out to the markets to find live chickens. I have wanted to experience this for a while, and Thanksgiving seemed like an opportune time. We went to Nakawa market, a large market near where we stay in Kampala. This market has sections for used clothing, children’s toys, household items, fruit and vegetables, and, of course, poultry. The poultry section smelled foul (no pun intended) and had hundreds, perhaps thousands of chickens all caged up. It was a far cry from humane, but if the descriptions I hear of US factory farms are correct, these chickens actually had it quite good. We began bargaining with the salesman who eventually agreed to sell us two live chickens (‘medium’ sized) for 30,000UGX (about $12) including the slaughter and cleaning. 

It was a disturbing experience, but I think an important one.  It is amazing how disconnected Americans are from their food.  I didn't like choosing a chicken to be killed (and no, I did not opt to watch its death). It is much more comfortable to buy a chicken at the grocery store.  It's easier.  But it's good to be reminded of the reality.  Most people don't have the privilege of eating vegetarian, but I do... and I am thinking it's time to go back to it.  

The rest of Thanksgiving Day I helped a bit in the kitchen (I was in charge of cooking the carrots and the mashed potatoes), but mostly I stayed clear. I am really good at watching people cook! I also coordinated the Thanksgiving art project, making sure every dinner guest had their hand traced and then decorated their hand-turkey (think elementary school crafts). The menu was impressive: two chickens that were alive hours earlier, a delicious sweet potato casserole, garlic mashed potatoes, green beans, honey glazed carrots, stuffing, and of course cranberry sauce—my personal favorite. For dessert there was pumpkin cake (made of real pumpkin), apple pie, and chocolate chip cookies. It was a delicious meal and I was so happy to spend it with my Kampala family. Earlier in the week I made an apple pie (with the help of a more talented housemate) for my coworkers. While they didn’t love the pie (it was too sweet for them) I was thankful that I had the opportunity to share it with them. I am really thankful that I am here in Uganda, having this experience, but my roommate and I did have a moment of honesty: truly, we are thankful to be American with all the privileges that identity comes with.

[Aside: One of my coworkers asked me if I had to send an invitation through the embassy for my mom to visit Uganda.  No, I explained, Americans traveling to Uganda--and most countries--merely need to buy a ticket and deal with quick visa forms at the airport.  We rarely fear that we won't be welcomed in to a country based on our nationality.  This is not the case for most nationalities, and the freedom to travel is one of many un-earned privileges that I have as an American.]

The next morning 3 housemates and I went off to the Ssese Islands. The Ssese Islands are about 3.5 hours off the coast of Entebbe in Lake Victoria. The islands are pretty off the beaten track, with only one ferry reaching there per day. Getting to Entebbe is a bit of an ordeal (it always takes longer than the 1 hour it should!), but the boat ride was a lot of fun. My friends and I played games, read, and watched the water go by. When we got to the island (Bugala Island) we had to walk through the village to get to our hotel.  There, we spotted lots of adorable children, and even a donkey!  We checked in at our hotel and promptly found our way to the beach! It was so gorgeous and we made it just in time for the sunset. Unfortunately, Lake Victoria is home to many parasites, so swimming was not an option. We played some Uno by a bonfire, had dinner, and went to sleep.

On Saturday we woke up and were pleased that the weather was warm! We ate our breakfast and then went on a hike/walk through a forest area to the town of Kalangala. While most of the hotels are located on the ocean near the boat dock, the town itself is located up a giant hill. The walk was beautiful though, and it was fun to see another Uganda town (most of them look pretty much the same—one commercial street with store fronts painted advertising various brands). Once we made our way back to the beach we relaxed a bit and then opted for a canoe ride around the island. We didn’t get very far in the canoe, but it was still really enjoyable.  It was also fun to try to get in and out of the canoe without touching the parasite-ridden water (I was unsuccessful!) (I have been told that even one toe in Lake Victoria could put you at risk for Schistosomiasis--not fun!)

When we got back to dry land, we relaxed a bit more before heading to a barbeque at a nearby hotel. The barbeque was really fun and the food was great. When we left, we had to walk home on the dark beach—it was a little scary and the bugs were out in full force.  The stars were so beautiful though, and such a treat as they can't usually be seen in the lights and pollution of Kampala. 

Sunday morning we packed our things and headed for the ferry back to Kampala. The 3.5 hours went more quickly this time--especially because there was a cross-dressing singer to entertain us on the boat (the fact that this was happening in Uganda, one of the most homophobic and strict gender role countries I have ever been to, was especially curious!)  I think people enjoyed it/tolerated it because of how outlandish it was. A person who actually has a non-traditional gender identity would, unfortunately, not be accepted here.   

It was such a wonderful weekend, and now back to the Kampala grind for one more week before heading on to vacation with my mom! I am so excited for her to come so I can show her all the wonderful things about Uganda.  

Scenes

View outside my house on a foggy morning:

Women in Bushenyi participating in a leadership workshop:

My female coworkers enjoying some handmade jewelry:

guide me home

Last week I had several opportunities to act as a guide for the the executive director of the organization I work for. The executive director is blind and her normal guide was out of the office. I seemed like a good enough substitute.

My executive director and I were requested at a meeting just outside the city and getting there would require two taxis and a quick walk through the middle of town.  I was not prepared for the role of a guide through the chaotic streets of Kampala.  Walking with my executive director through town was one of the scariest experiences of my life. When I am only responsible for my own body, I often get hit by slow moving cars or trip on hopelessly uneven sidewalks. I have had near-death experiences with potholes as deep as my shoulders, and falling is a daily experience for me. Leading myself and another person who could not see through the mess that is a Kampala traffic jam was terrifying, but I did my best.

Poetically, while I had the ability to see, my executive director was the one with the true vision. She surprised me in her complete competence: her ability to deal with Kampala, a place that is not exactly accommodating to someone with special needs. When we were on the taxi she would point out various landmarks that she sensed. She knew where to get off the taxi, and she knew the directions through town. I may have had sight, but she had vision. Without her, I never would have made it to that meeting. Without me, she also would have been stuck. In that moment we became allies.  Although I have been working in the disability movement here in Uganda for 5 months, it took this experience to show me how truly disabling the environment can be.  

When we arrived at the meeting, I was faced with the usual round of questioning: where are you from? how long are you here? what do you do? how do you like Uganda?  and the now-dreaded, when are you leaving?

I am leaving next month, I said. My questioner disapproved and did not hesitate to tell me so, but my executive director came to my defense.

"Marta will be back to Africa," she said. "Yes, she will be back in a big way."

I have often felt guilty about the short amount of time I am spending here.  Six months is insignificant, and sometimes it makes me feel like I might be the same as every other do-gooding foreigner with no real understanding of what development is, or the long-term concerted and strategic effort that it takes.  But I know I can't stay here right now (for so many reasons) and getting my executive director's vote of confidence and "consent" to go home meant more to me than I can articulate.

Reproductive Health in Uganda

Two weeks ago I attended a training workshop on reproductive health for university women.  I sat in the back and helped register participants, making a conscious decision to be an observer.  I wanted to see how reproductive health information was conveyed in this very unique context.  I have thought a lot about this workshop over the last couple weeks, trying to determine the best way to talk about it.  I can't give an objective overview (I think you all know that I am far too opinionated for objectivity), so instead I will give my overall impressions of sexual and reproductive health in Uganda (biased, of course).

1. Women should be sexless.  I have tried very hard over the past several months to understand this better, but I am afraid my explanations are a bit convoluted.  The messages I hear about women's health have an undertone of sterility.  Men want sex, women tolerate it.  Women have to learn about their reproductive health in order so that one day they might produce babies (and lots of them), but sexuality and desire is for men.  Outright displays of sexuality make women "prostitutes."

2. Men are held to the lowest possible standard.  I can't count the number of times I have heard that "all Ugandan men cheat."  I don't know whether it is true or not, but the explanation about why men cheat is really disturbing.  Apparently, men's sexuality is so strong and powerful, that it cannot be satisfied by one woman. Ever. (and on the same note, a woman's sexuality is so weak that it could never match a man's, and if it does, there is something wrong with that woman).  Relationships are socially constructed, and people will always meet your (low) expectations.  Cheating is normalized and it is not uncommon to hear tales of wives meeting their husbands "other" families for the first time at funerals.  

3. Religion remains a paradox.  I have also heard that the only solution to "cheating" is for men to become born again Christians.  While people are quick to preach purity and fidelity in a Christian context, the reality is that teen and out-of-marriage pregnancy in Uganda is extremely common and even culturally accepted.  Uganda is an extremely religious society (thanks, missionaries), but when it comes to reproductive health and sexuality, there seems to be a lot of contradiction.  Chemical birth control may be out of the question for religious reasons, but sex outside of marriage is not. 

4. Women are blamed.  Because men have an insatiable sexual appetite, they are washed of all responsibility when it comes to the consequences of sex.  Women are blamed for unwanted/unplanned pregnancies.  Women are blamed for rape: "if you walk at night, what can you expect?"; "don't be alone with a man because they only have one idea."; "if you wear clothing that is short and tight, then you are asking for it."  (Oh yes, these are real examples).  Women are stripped of sexual agency while at the same time responsible for "controlling" the sexuality of men. 

5. Don't have sex, but if you do... Children are very much cherished in Uganda, and having children is seen as one of the most important duties of women (this is probably why while Christianity has made pregnancy out of marriage slightly taboo, it has failed to succeed at making it that bad).  Abortion is seen as shameful, consequence-ridden (medically and morally), and 'bad-for-Uganda.'  "Children are our future, so if you do fall pregnant, do not have an abortion.  Keep all your children."  Women are expected to bare children no matter what-- hence why the average woman in Uganda gives birth to between 6 and 7 babies in a lifetime (second highest birth rate in the world).  

Reproductive health in Uganda is seen as a woman's responsibility, and yet any agency that might help a woman take control of reproductive and sexual decision making is completely undermined.  Religion enforces cultural and social paternalism, and women are left with only a superficial voice.  Certainly these issues are not uniquely Ugandan... in fact, I think they mirror a lot of the issues faced in the US, especially in regards to anti-choice, conservative politics.  In the end women everywhere are faced with lots of responsibility and little power.  Talk about unfair. 

look harder

I had a little reality check this morning: I am leaving Uganda in less than 7 weeks. I am done with work in less than 4 weeks. This is coming to an end and I'm not even sure when it started. When did I arrive? In some ways, I think I arrive more and more everyday.

Before I got here my picture of Uganda was extremely vague. I outlined the borders of Uganda in my head and imagined what might be inside. I didn't anticipate the ways that this geography would become a part of me.  Kampala is obnoxious, dirty, foreign, beautiful, diverse, crowded, chaotic, and about 100 other adjectives that will tell you nothing about the true character of this place.  Kampala is a living, breathing organism.  When I map Kampala in my head I see the taxi circuit, going round and round. The streets of Kampala like an artery... clogging and unclogging, jamming and unjamming.  

The people I have gotten to know in Uganda are spectacular, but far more complex and multi-dimensional than could ever be captured in a blog. They are, in all fundamental ways, the same as you and me. People don't think of themselves in terms of what they lack, and if you go to a developing country and only see poverty, than you haven't looked hard enough. 

I implore you: look harder.  I'm glad I did.  

human rights

I recently sat in on a meeting where a human rights scholar from Europe was trying to gather information about human rights education in Uganda. She encouraged my organization to teach human rights at an organizational level, as well as to our beneficiaries (i.e.: poor, semi-isolated disabled women and their families). My first reaction to this concept was disbelief. I couldn’t believe that this educated woman from one of Europe’s richest countries was telling me that a development priority should be teaching women about human rights. Human rights that will never be granted to them and that will never be realized in their own lives. I couldn’t fathom the purpose of spending valuable time and resources teaching people about rights that their government will never protect, all the while women are dying during childbirth, living well below the international poverty line, dying of curable diseases, and can’t afford to educate their children. I was kind of upset. I understand that human rights are important (heck, I think they are great), but I can’t help but think this is an exercise in utter futility. The UN commissions and reports are great standards and they can help instill political will (at their best), but they are not legally binding, and the UN is not a rights-granter. The UN won’t be going down to small villages in Uganda to make sure that women are granted their human rights any time soon.

Human rights are only relevant so far as someone is there to enforce them. It’s great to say that you have a right to health care, but unless you live in a country that is fiercely committed (politically and financially) to upholding that right, you really have nothing of the sort. I surely believe that women have the right to proper maternal health care that minimizes their risk of death or injury, but unless the state of Uganda is committed to that goal and outcome, the women of Uganda have nothing.

Teaching people the pillars of the CRC (commission on the rights of the child), CEDAW (the convention to end all forms of discrimination against women), and the CRDP (convention on the rights of persons with disabilities) won’t magically empower them to claim their rights, nor will it strong-arm the state into granting/upholding rights. Teaching about human rights is a great exercise for advocacy purposes, but beyond that I fail to see the point. If you teach women about human rights, but fail to instill any sort of self-efficacy or empowerment about claiming those rights, what has been accomplished? And sadly, most people have no ability to claim their human rights at all, especially within the context of a government that can’t and won’t dedicate resources where they are most needed.  

People who disagree with me might say that a society that knows their rights is better equipped to hold the government accountable for providing them.  I get that, but pragmatically, it's shallow.  At a national level advocates and civil society should definitely be well-versed in human rights for those purposes.  But what's the point of making human rights education a priority for people who literally have no access at all to the laws and justice system of this country, let alone the non-legally binding laws of some international body.

There are plenty of noble and interesting development goals; I’m just not convinced that human rights education at the grassroots level is one of them.  Maybe it's just another thing that makes donor countries feel good, but that's not good enough.  Not even close.

acts of kindness

Yesterday when I was taking a taxi to meet a friend for dinner two young women sat behind me and immediately started touching my hair.  I turned around and smiled at them and they told me how much they loved my hair!  I thanked them awkwardly. Nothing like a good hair compliment!  A few minutes later one of the girls got off and the other girl sat down next to me.  She again complimented my hair and asked me a few questions about where I live and work.  We engaged in a short conversation and she was genuinely very nice, but I don't make a habit of making friends on public transportation.  She got off the taxi a few stops before me and as she did she told the conductor "don't let this one pay, I have paid for her."  I didn't have time to protest, so I just yelled out my thanks.  

Moments like this remind me that most people's curiosity is genuine.  Most people are good.  And random acts of kindness, like having someone pay your transport, can make a mediocre day wonderful. 

Hair compliments don't hurt either.

Scenes

Pictures from the last few weeks:

Rafting on the Nile.  Raft is in the process of flipping (clearly)

Uganda V. Kenya Soccer game

Roommates (L-R: Erin, Me, Erin, Shira, Daniela)

My coworkers and me with Ugandan musical group Radio and Weasel

Health worker training in Mpigi on reproductive rights

who's in charge here?

Working in the field of public health and international development can be challenging. There are no easy solutions; nothing comes without consequences down-stream. There are cultures to consider, limited resources to allocate, expectations to manage, and motivations to deconstruct. On the surface, Uganda is flooded with NGOs working towards development to such an extent that it can be argued that a middle class has been built on the business of development here. In my short ten minute walk to work, I pass offices for 5 different NGOs all working on different aspects of development (HIV advocacy, land and property rights, agriculture x2, and ICT access). Within Kampala I have friends working for disability rights, environmental conservation, community health in slums, sex worker rights, ARV access, poverty, malaria prevention, entrepreneurship, and the list goes on.

One-third of Uganda's budget is foreign aid, and the non-governmental sector is simultaneously inundated with foreign money (and foreign priorities, ideas, and goals) and deprived of adequate resources to successfully implement programs and have a measurable impact. In my experience, sincere efforts at community-based, participatory methods are extremely limited.  Development is donor driven. 

Despite vast (and possibly even sincere) efforts towards development, Uganda is a country with the highest malaria incidence in the world, where mothers give birth to an average of 7 babies in a lifetime, where 8% of adults have HIV, where more than half the population is living below the international poverty line, and where most demographic indicators have stagnated since the 1970s. All this despite effort, despite money, and despite the NGO renaissance taking place in Kampala.

But in the business of development, failure is not an option. However, reassessing our strategies should be. Although I have only been in Uganda for 5 months, the question I came here with still plagues me: Who is setting the development agenda and for who's benefit?  Everyday I get hints towards an answer that I am a little afraid of facing.  

anger management and public transportation

On my way to work a boda (motorcycle) driver pulls up in front of me.  "We go?"  He asks eagerly.  My face drops and I quickly go from enjoying the nice weather on my short walk to work, to annoyed.  "No, we don't go" I snap back.  My step becomes more determined and I no longer greet the people who walk past me.  Another boda driver pulls up next to me, this one had to go entirely out of his way to offer me a ride.  "Muzungu, where are you going?"  He questions expectantly.  Surely he is shocked when I yell back, "I am FOOTING" in pure frustration.  

Last week a taxi driver tried to charge my friends and I double the cost of the ride we took.  Having taken this route countless times, I knew the fare should be 500ush/person.  When the conductor rudely informed me that it was 1000ugx a person and then attempted to close the door before my friends could leave (essentially holding them hostage), I became irate.  I actually don't have a clear recollection of how the "conversation" transpired, but evidently I called the man an asshole, told him he was going to hell for lying, and threw money in his face.  He drove off while giving me the finger, and I felt uneasy for several hours after the altercation.

Public transportation makes me a crazy person, and these two anecdotes aren't even the tip of the iceberg.  My reactions of anger, however, are irrational and unproductive, and ultimately only harm me.  Intellectually, I KNOW why I am overcharged and offered rides when I don't want them.  I am well aware that I am living in a country where poverty is overwhelming, where even many professionals live on subsistence level incomes.  I appreciate that the economy here is making it harder and harder for people to make enough money to live.  And I am always conscious that I am beyond privileged, in almost every way.  Intellectually, nothing I am confronted with here is outside of rational.  If you thought you could make an extra buck (thereby doubling your income for the day) by overcharging a couple of muzungus who probably don't know the difference anyway, would you?  Probably, yes.  I imagine that is pretty easy to rationalize.  

So, why does it make me so inexplicably angry?  I honestly don't know.  But for my own well-being, I need to start acting on the intellectual understanding I have of the complex systems of poverty and inequality at play here and start treating people more compassionately.  

When I walk home from work later today a boda driver will inevitably pull up in front of me and say "Muzungu, we go?"  I will take a deep breath and smile while responding, "Not today, sebo."  I will continue walking, continue smiling, and continue working at being a positive presence in this world.  That's our biggest responsibility to ourselves and others, after all. 

Uganda in the news

Uganda has made several appearances in the news this week!  Here are links and quick reactions. 

 

Discontent Simmers in a Market as Uganda's Economy Staggers

The economy in Uganda is struggling, and it is clearly evident in my daily interactions with taxi drivers, shop owners, and coworkers.  Prices of everything from avocados to petrol have gone up substantially in my 4 months here (and the exchange rate has gone from 2400USH to the dollar to 2900USH to the dollar).  There have been contentious debates over the skyrocketing price of sugar, which has bisected environmental debates about where sugar can be grown in this country.  It is obvious that people are not happy and "many Ugandans say that their government is corrupt and that their president, Yoweri Museveni, who after 25 years has ruled Uganda for longer than more than half the country’s population has been alive, is dismissive of the people’s plight." 

3 Officials Quit Amid Scandals in Uganda

The entire country was tuned in to the Parliament debate over oil last week, and the corruption runs deep.  While oil could be a great asset to Uganda financially, they currently do not have the capability to cultivate (mine?) or refine it without outside investment and help.  Hopefully they won't go the way of other resource-cursed countries or be exploited by oil-hungry countries.  Ugandan's currently pay about the equivalent of $6 USD a gallon for petrol and have one of the weakest currencies in the world. 

 

Armed U.S. Advisers to Help Fight African Renegade Group

This article was the most upsetting to me.  There is peace in northern Uganda right now and the last thing people want or need up there is more conflict.  I am hopeful that this won't provoke anything, but worry that it is not a positive step for the US or Uganda.  The LRA is basically a 300 man insurgency, and though they certainly pose a threat they have been quiet for several years now.  Northern Ugandans have lobbied for amnesty for the LRA, and although it certainly won't be granted to Kony himself (due to involvement by the ICC), bringing in 100 US troops NOW hardly seems productive.  My coworkers have mentioned the possible ulterior motives by the US... namely, the newly discovered oil reserves.  Why would the US get involved now and not at any point during the 23 year war/terror when northern Ugandans were being systematically kidnapped, brainwashed, tortured, and killed by the LRA.  

In Uganda, Security Forces Clash with Protestors

There is another “walk to work” protest this week, which is known to incite violence.  Walk to work is organized by the opposition and is intended to stand against the high price of commodities and petrol.  I think it’s interesting for several reasons.  For one, Uganda is the only country I know of where walking to work is a political statement (in general people here don’t walk… walking is seen as a sign of poverty, hence why when I walk to work I am stopped about every 5 seconds by people wanting to give me a ride.  My walk to work is only 10 minutes!)  It is also interesting because walking to work seems so harmless and even beneficial—less traffic on the road, good exercise for the masses, less pollution, etc—but it is seen as a revolutionary, political act and is met with violence and persecution.  

october updates

My days have been pleasantly busy in Uganda.  In the last few weeks I have gotten to do several exciting things both in work-life and play-life.  As for work, I hosted a meeting at my organization to discuss the research we conducted last month and the reports that I generated from the research.  Basically, the research was a baseline survey trying to understand the extent and processes of gender and disability mainstreaming at the national, district, and sub-county (village) levels.  We wanted to know how women and girls with disabilities are included in all aspects of social, economic, religious, cultural, and civic life.  The research was fascinating and pointed out some serious, systematic gaps in how people with disabilities are treated in Uganda at all levels and in all sectors.  To know of these horrible discrepancies is a burden, but to act upon the knowledge we have collected will be liberating for thousands (and arguably millions, as some estimates claim that as much as 10% of the population in Uganda is disabled.  This is primarily the result of armed conflict and debilitating infectious diseases).

Along with this meeting, I was able to travel to the field in Bushenyi district (far western Uganda) last week to assist with and observe trainings of women with disabilities.  We trained on gender, group dynamics and formation, and disseminated the research we had conducted there.  I am a huge proponent of research dissemination and strongly believe that anything less than full disclosure is unethical.  People who are a part of research deserve to know the results and potential benefits of that research.   Luckily, western Uganda is arguably the most beautiful region in this country, and I was not disappointed with the time I spent there! 

Another exciting thing that happened at work was an impromptu meeting with a very popular Ugandan hip-hop music group!  These Ugandan super-stars have agreed to take on the advancement of women with disabilities as their personal project in the next few months, and in doing so will support the organization I work for greatly.  It was very exciting to meet with them and talk about the importance of reproductive health rights for women with disabilities.  They will certainly be great advocates for the rights of women and girls with disabilities in Uganda!

Outside of work I am keeping quite busy with weekly Luganda lessons, (soon to be regular) trivia nights, cooking with my roommates, and enjoying Kampala in its fullest.  For Rosh Hashana two of my roommates and I hosted a dinner for fifteen of our friends.  We did the same thing for Yom Kippur, only this time another of my roommates organized a great service, which helped us all reflect on our roles here in Uganda and development in general.  Last week I attended the Uganda v. Kenya soccer game at the Mandela stadium, despite warnings from the embassy not to go.  It was a fun experience, and I am glad that I went even though there were a few… questionable moments.  The stadium was beyond packed, and the crowds were wild.  It was intense to see Ugandan police officers literally lining the entire field with tear gas and shields, ready for riots.  Luckily, the event went down without any major incidents, but unfortunately the game ended in a tie, squashing any hope for Uganda advancing to the Africa Cup. 

This past weekend I went to an art opening at my favorite gallery in Kampala (AfriArt) and then headed off to Jinja for a weekend of expensive, adrenaline-packed thrills!  We went ATV-ing and then white water rafting on the Nile.  Let's just say, I ingested my fair share of parasite-infested Nile water when our raft flipped on a class 5 rapid.  I had never been rafting before, but I think it might be my new favorite hobby/extreme sport.  I also had a great time talking with my coworkers about why my skin "cooks" in the sun on Monday.  That is so not public health!

Who will you live for?

That was the central question of a church event I attended with a few Ugandan friends who were kind enough to invite me along. Although I am constantly disturbed by the permeation of religious missionary ideas in Ugandan society, the event was fascinating to witness.

The question, "who will you live for?" is an interesting one. If you asked the pastor at this event, there are only two answers: Jesus or yourself. Clearly only one of these answers is "right." But I found the dichotomy so interesting because certainly I do NOT live for Jesus or any other religious entity for that matter, but the alternative... living for yourself, that's pretty cheap, isn't it?

Sometimes I do live for myself. I live for the next adventure, the next feeling of total freedom. I live for the next time I laugh until my body hurts, or the next time I am offered approval from someone I respect or admire. I live for an awesome conversation with a friend, or feeling connected to the world around me. I'm not sure any of these things are inherently bad. I cannot see the world in terms of black and white. My world is so gray. Almost anything can be justified with the right intentions.

So, who do I live for? I think a better question is what do I live for. Aside from adventure, freedom, laughter, approval, and connection (all amazing things, in my opinion), I live for justice. I live for the causes that keep me so engaged that I can't sleep or breath until I learn, read, or write more. I want to live for the benefit of humanity, but to be fair, I don't always know how to do that.

So many things about Uganda confuse and intrigue me, but the religious piece is especially complex. I wonder, who is so invested in making sure that these young Ugandans live for Jesus? Why can't someone be that invested in making sure people live for social justice, peace, or equality? Why can't someone be that invested in making sure Ugandans have access to health care or education or economic opportunities? Ultimately, wouldn't that make the world a better, fairer place?

a real update

I feel like I haven't done a real update in a while... I have to consult my calendar to remember what I have been up to since Safari.

Actually, the weekend before Safari Noa and I took a day trip to the equator! Now, this is primarily a tourist trap, but we were pretty excited about it nonetheless. The equator is about an hour or so south west of Kampala and we took a bus there. The bus pulled over on the side of the road and signaled to us that it was our stop... at first we were skeptical, but then we saw the giant circular equator markers and we knew that we had made it! We hopped of the bus and began the obligatory photo-shoot. After taking several dozen photos, eating moist muffins (they are actually called moist muffins and are pretty well known as the best muffins in Uganda, sold only at the equator), and doing a little craft shopping, we decided to head home. However, it was a Sunday evening, and all the buses and taxis were full! We were passed up by many taxis and were beginning to worry when a taxi finally pulled over... to tell us he was full! Very polite, but what a bummer! Soon after I stuck my thumb out to attempt a little hitchhiking, a taxi pulled over with exactly two spaces. Success!

That week Noa and I also hosted a movie night with some of our friends and her wonderful coworkers. We made some delicious Ugandan food (the most authentic meal that will ever be cooked in our kitchen!) and watched the movie where Judaism and Uganda collide: Operation Entebbe. Most of us greatly enjoyed it. Plus, it was tremendous fun to host our friends. Later in the week I went to the tailor with my fabric to begin the process of getting a dress made. It was really fun and my dress turned out pretty well, just requiring a few adjustments (popular fashion in Uganda dictates enormous hips... not cute!) That weekend we went to Murchison Falls on safari, which I have already updated about.

Since Murchison Falls I have begun Luganda lessons (Nsoma OLuganda buli lunaku/I study Luganda everyday), started a new project at work (operation organize the resource center so it does not resemble a storage facility is well underway!), and we hosted another gathering at our house for Noa's goodbye. It was a very successful party and it was fun to bring together all the various people who are part of our lives in Uganda. Also that weekend we went to the Gadaffi Mosque, which was very beautiful, and I had dinner with the new AJWS group. It was great fun to meet some new people and catch up with others who I hadn't seen in quite a while. All of the other volunteers in my cohort have left, and the new group has moved in. It's been a lot of fun getting to know them and being able to answer some of their questions and show them around Kampala makes me feel super competent!

Last week I was also in the field one day observing a training of health workers on the reproductive health rights of women with disabilities. This was an awesome training and really just solidified in my mind how amazing and talented my coworkers are. It also made me realize just how deep some of the misconceptions and prejudices against women with disabilities are in Uganda and how these prejudices can seriously impact health-seeking behavior, and ultimately health outcomes.

This past weekend I attended the Sean Kingston concert (along with Mr. Flavour) which was hilarious (No, I would never in a million years go to a Sean Kingston concert in the US, but in Uganda... it seemed necessary). Then on Saturday I spent the day at AfriArt gallery (an awesome art gallery in Kampala... will definitely be going back there!), eating Indian food, and attending an outdoor music festival in Kampala.

Well, it's been a good couple weeks in Kampala. I am enjoying my routine here, which consists of me eating avocado everyday, hanging out with my goat that I named Obama, making my coworkers laugh (at me), and attempting to use my toddler-Luganda in everyday conversation. I can't say that life here isn't without frustrations (pretty sure I called my mom last weekend to ask if I needed stitches for a taxi-related injury), and I am still figuring out how to live here comfortably AND responsibly, but I don't want to be anywhere else.

Until next time!

phase two

I am entering the second phase of my time here in Uganda as an AJWS volunteer and Tulane MPH practicum student. My cohort of volunteers have almost all left the country, ready to move on in their lives. In a hundred ways, I am NOT ready to move on with my life. Not even close. Sure, I face daily frustrations (case in point: earlier this week I had two separate, semi-serious taxi injuries), but I am generally very happy here. That, and I am far from finished. I still have a lot to learn.

September-December Goals:

• start brainstorming/writing my public health analysis
• determine gaps in knowledge in public health in order to pick next semester courses
• read more books (fun and academic)
• do something sustainable at my place of work
• learn more Luganda/practice my Luganda more
• travel somewhere else in East Africa

The next 3 months hold so much possibility.

observations

A culture that mandates you tell anyone you greet “well done” starting around midday acknowledges the fact that people work hard here, no matter what they do. I like that.

I have to take a deep breath and re-center myself about 20 times a day. Completely worth it.

The sayings on the back of taxis produce endless amusement. ("safety is no accident"; "I support mothercare"; "patience pays"; etc.)

Chaos is an illusion of the uninitiated.

There will always be a jam. Always.

I will always be amazed at what people carry on motorcycles (Half of a manikin? A large pane of glass? Several dozen live chickens? Just another day.)

Access, in the broadest sense, is a fundamental human rights issue.

Sustainability is a high-order function.

Anything can be repaired or mended, from cellphones to shoes.

Power is centralized, but responsibility and accountability are diffuse. This is no accident.

Culture can be marketed and sold; entire peoples can be commodified. Be careful what you consume.

Safari Pictures

Giraffe

Mama and baby elephants

Mama and baby hippo

Water buffalo enjoying the mud

Murchison Falls

7 Jews and a Missionary went on Safari...

And we still don't have the punch line for that joke! This past weekend my friends and I went up to Murchison Falls National Park in north western Uganda. The park is the largest reserve in Uganda and is located right on the Victoria Nile leading into Lake Albert, bordering the Democratic Republic of the Congo. The weekend began on Friday when we left for Masindi and realized that our group consisted of 7 Jews and a Christian missionary... auspicious beginnings!

On Friday evening we took a short walk on the Nile and got our first look at wildlife. We saw hippos and warthogs immediately, along with birds and lots of baboons. Baboons are really gross and I do not like them at all! Warthogs, on the other hand, are extremely ugly but have complex social communication, which makes them interesting. They also like to rummage through garbage cans, so we named them the raccoons of Africa. That night a hippo made its way to our campsite and spent the evening next to our tent. Comforting. Hippos are the most dangerous animal in Africa after the mosquito. We slept well.

On Saturday we were up bright and early to begin a game drive. Although we were tired, the great outdoors energized us. Our first animal siting lifted our spirits... more hippos! We also saw a plethora of giraffe, kob (antelope), jackson hartebeest, water buffalo, lions, elephants, many birds, and more! The scenery was absolutely beautiful... green and lush with trees, wet from the nearby river and lake. My seat in the safari vehicle happened to be in the very back, so I spent the morning with half my body out the window at all times. Anything for a good view, right! I managed to spot several species of "large ants" that way, which surely impressed my fellow safari-mates and guide. It made the official list of things we saw, anyway. When my fellow safari-mates realized that my strategy was to (literally) hang out the window, I became the subject of many photos... leading me to proclaim, only somewhat accurately, that I was the cutest thing on the safari. Probably not true!

That afternoon we took a boat trip on the river Nile towards Murchison Falls. On the boat we saw more hippos and elephants, along with alligators and more birds. It was cool to be on THE Nile! The falls looked small on the approach, but up close it was huge! The boat "docked" at a big rock and allowed the braver passengers to get out. Of course I was among those who got on that rock! It was so amazing to see the falls from, more or less, inside the river Nile. I was careful not to touch, as the river is parasite infested, but it was still amazing and well worth it. After a few photo-ops, we got back in the boat and headed back to camp.

That night the hippo visited our campsite again, this time right as a group of us prepared a short Havdallah service. We didn't have a candle, so we used two flashlights (the lights intertwined!) and we didn't have spices, so we used an old bag of chips (kind of gross), but we did have wine! The service was very nice and I think the hippo enjoyed it as well. On Sunday we woke up and headed out for a short hike at Murchison Falls. If the falls were amazing from a distance on the Nile, they were a hundred times more amazing up close and personal. I have never seen anything so powerful and breathtaking... I think I might be addicted to waterfalls. When I looked at the falls, it was almost as if it was too much to take in at once. I found myself focusing on just one part, like the clear water blossoming into white water, or the way the water hit a rock at a certain point. I kept focusing in and out, it was mesmerizing! I could have stayed there all day.

After the hike we loaded up and headed back to busy Kampala. I slept without fear of hippo attacks last night, but seriously missing the beauty and calm of Murchison Falls.

This morning, as if I needed an official welcome back to Uganda reality, I had to go renew my visa at the immigration office. After three hours, major frustration, a trip to an internet cafe to write and print a request letter, and negotiating with literally the meanest person I have met since I came to Uganda, I am officially allowed to be in this country for 3 more months. Success!

Pictures are coming, I promise!

August 31

We met a woman who suffers from epilepsy in a former internally displaced persons camp in Northern Uganda. Through a translator she told us that she cannot go near pregnant women or children. The community fears that her condition is catching. They don't know who might be afflicted next. Some of this fear is genuine, some of it is plainly abusive.

The stigma facing women with disabilities manifests as rape, abuse, neglect, and public ridicule. This combined with poverty, low levels of education, and an HIV epidemic produce scary results. Many disabled children are hidden away by their own families, denied socialization, education, and basic care. Many women with disabilities struggle to take ownership of their own sexual and reproductive health. The human rights of people with disabilities are unfulfilled. The invisibility of this population prevents fundamental change.

Despite these very real challenges, women with disabilities are not devoid of agency. Most of the women we spoke to showed incredible strength in the face of very real adversity.

"Tell us about women with disabilities in your community who are successful," we asked.

Some responses were tentative... a farmer who made a decent living, a member of parliament in a far off land. But some were more concrete... a woman with a successful business selling food, a teacher in a nearby school.

"How did these people attain their success?"

They were given support. They were loved by their families. They risked everything to attend school. They were given a scholarship. They benefited from an NGO project.

The organization I work for is working at the grassroots and national levels for the betterment of women and girls with disabilities in Uganda. They envision a society where the rights of women and girls with disabilities are respected, where girls with disabilities have equal access to education, where the sexual and reproductive health rights of women with disabilities are understood. This organization envisions a world where people with disabilities can live as autonomous members of communities that include, support, and value them as individuals.

To this end, the organization is creating awareness and influencing policy for the direct benefit of people with disabilities in Uganda. They are helping groups of women with disabilities in their villages attain basic human rights. They are transforming the lives of women with disabilities through training, education, health care, and access to law enforcement. They are working toward systemic change, while not ignoring the immediate needs of the population they seek to uplift and empower.

This is a strategy that I greatly admire and strive to achieve in my own life's work.

The last woman we interviewed told us that people with disabilities are being left behind in development. The truth of her words are ringing in my ears.